Month: December 2024

 

 

Each year as we put the finishing touches on our holiday tree, a serious debate arises regarding the quantity of tinsel necessary to complete the task. During this year’s deliberation, I pondered the murky origins of tinsel. To some, the silvery strands of unknown composition evoke images of glistening icicles or shimmering crystals of frost on evergreen branches. But how did tinsel become part of a holiday tradition in so many households?

To aficionados of arachnids, the tradition of festive tinsel has several different origins. One Christian story tells of Mary’s harrowing escape from Roman soldiers as she and Jesus hid in the hills near Bethlehem. With Herod’s legion in hot pursuit, Mary entered a cave seeking refuge. Spiders quickly sealed the entrance with silk and when soldiers arrived and saw the undisturbed webs, they disregarded the cave as a hideaway and continued their search elsewhere. Often-maligned spiders saved the day! Since that time, tinsel has been strung on Christmas trees to represent a glistening spider web and to commemorate the spiders’ miraculous deed. Other tinsel legends from Germany and the Ukraine tell of spiders escaping the lethal brooms of housekeepers by hiding in dark corners of the home during preparations for holiday celebrations. After exiting their redoubts on Christmas Eve, spiders excitedly explored the evergreen trees that had been brought inside and then left behind glorious cloaks of gossamer webs. When Father Christmas arrived that night and saw the gray spider webs, he miraculously changed them into sparkling silver strands, much to the delight of families who viewed the trees on Christmas morning. Since that time, tinsel has been strung as a symbol of the remarkable event.

Watch as the beautiful spined micrathena carefully places each strand of silk in her gossamer web. 

Many spiders survive winter’s chill as eggs protected in silken sacs. If the spider’s last haunt was a spruce or fir, then egg sacs may enter homes as stowaways on Christmas trees. In the warmth of holiday homes, eggs hatch and humans may be recipients of dozens of unexpected visitors in, on, and under the Christmas tree. If you discover a spider egg sac on your Christmas tree or fresh evergreen boughs, simply pluck off a small piece of the infested branch and place it along with the egg sac outside on a shrub. This will allow the spiders to hatch just in time to deliver a deferred holiday gift of pest control in your garden.

Other common visitors that may enter homes with holiday greenery include egg cases of praying mantises such as those of the Carolina mantis, European praying mantis, and Chinese praying mantis. In temperate areas like the DMV, these apex predators spend the winter as eggs in Styrofoam-like masses called ootheca. In spring when temperatures warm and prey are once again abundant, mantis eggs hatch and hungry nymphs get busy ridding your farm, garden, or flower bed of pests. For a bug geek, the notion of hundreds of tiny mantises hatching on a holiday tree might bring an unusual kind of holiday cheer, but for most folks, all those tiny mouths to feed might be somewhat overwhelming. So, before you choose a holiday tree or other greenery to bring into your home, do a quick inspection and remove any mantis egg cases and leave them outdoors where they will provide pest cleanup in spring.

 

Several insects and arachnids spend the winter on greenery that you might bring into your home. When you choose your holiday tree, inspect it before you bring it indoors. Look for egg cases of Chinese praying mantises, Carolina mantises, and European praying mantises. Egg cases like this one of the basilica spider may be on a thread of silk or some may be small white fluffy wax tufts on branches. If you live in a region with spotted lanternflies, scrape off egg masses on the bark and destroy them. Some sucking insect pests with white wax, like adelgids on Douglas firs or pines and tiny white scale insects on needles, will not survive in your home and will not cause problems.

In areas invaded by spotted lanternfly, we know that adults lay eggs on many types of trees and structures. Scientists at Penn State recommend inspecting the trunks of holiday trees and scraping off any egg masses of lanternflies lest they hatch in the warmth of your living room and bring some holiday mischief to your home. Other lanternfly relatives, sucking insects such as scales on pine needles and adelgids on branches and bark of pine and spruce, may also accompany greenery into your home. They can be recognized by the white wax that covers their tiny bodies. Even if these insects enter your home, the conditions inside your house are not likely to support their establishment or survival.     

Bug of the Week wishes one and all a joyous Holiday season and a wonderful New Year!

 

 

Acknowledgements

We thank Jason and our friends at the Weather Channel for providing the inspiration for this episode. The interesting article “Insects on Real Christmas Trees” by Michael J. Skvarla was used as a reference.

To learn more about spiders and associated legends and stories of Christmas, please visit the following website: http://www.willowmoonmarket.com/legends.html#Tin

To learn a bit more about dealing with insects and spiders that enter your home in winter, please click on this link for a story on the Weather Channel, and visit the following website:  https://extension.psu.edu/insects-on-real-christmas-trees

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What’s better on a chilly winter night than a roaring fire in the hearth, right? Must be time to head to the woodpile to split a few logs. A year ago, I felled a rather large hackberry tree. Last week, as I split the bucked-up logs, I was astonished by the diversity of insects snuggled beneath the bark. Some were there to escape winter’s chill. Others were there to extract nutrients from woody tissues for growth and development. One and all will soon travel to bug Valhalla in the funeral pyre of a fireplace that helps heat my home. In a rather punky piece of wood, a beautiful bess beetle, champion recycler of lignan and cellulose, slowly escaped the probing eye of the camera lens. Bess beetles and their youngsters consume and digest wood.

Another stroke of the maul revealed a hidden chamber where a gaggle of winged carpenter ant queens were disturbed from their overwintering torpor. With the return of warm weather next spring, these callow queens would establish new colonies and lay thousands of eggs during a lifespan of several years.  Carpenter ants use powerful jaws to remove wood from logs or human-made structures to build galleries for their enormous colonies. Unlike bess beetles that consume wood for sustenance, carpenter ants eat living and dead insects, honeydew from sap-sucking insects, fruit and sap from plants.

Splitting firewood provides lots of buggy adventures. An astonishing diversity of recyclers live underneath the bark. Beneath a bark flap of a rather punky piece of firewood, a beautiful bess beetle tried to escape the probing eye of the camera when exposed to view. On another log, the stroke of a maul revealed a hidden chamber where a gaggle of winged carpenter ant queens hunkered down for the winter. The next split revealed a sleepy pair of darkling beetles ensconced in a narrow void in the log. From another log a lovely longhorn beetle, Neoclytus mucronatus, crawled out of its gallery when the log was cleaved. Larvae of longhorn beetles like this one bear a strange resemblance to Jabba the Hutt. Jingle Bells 7 by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license.

A strike at the next log revealed a sleepy pair of darkling beetles ensconced in a narrow void in the log. Adult darkling beetles like these seek hibernal refuge beneath the bark of trees. Adults eat decaying and fresh vegetable matter, while the larvae of darkling beetles eat fungi, mosses, lichens, guano, and other insects. Some, like mealworms, are pests of stored products in our pantries.  One of the most interesting denizens of dead wood was a lovely longhorn beetle, Neoclytus mucronatus. This beauty crawled out of a gallery when a log was cleaved in two.  Longhorn beetles, so named for the remarkable length of their antennae, are well known for colonizing dying and dead trees. It was no surprise to find this handsome adult emerging from my fallen hackberry tree. Adult longhorn beetles eat leaves, flowers, pollen, fruit, and nectar. Larvae use powerful jaws to bore into even the hardest of trees. Aided by a diverse and complex gut microbiome, wood boring larvae of longhorn beetles, known as round headed borers, are able to harvest nutrients from the woody tissues to sustain their growth and development. Many longhorn beetles, like the dreaded Asian longhorn beetle we met in a previous episode, attack living trees with a preference for those under stress. This beetle is responsible for the death of tens of thousands of trees in New York, Chicago, New Jersey, Massachusetts, Ohio, and South Carolina since its introduction to the United States in the 1990’s.

If you store firewood inside your home for long periods of time before use, don’t be surprised to see one of these characters wandering about your living room on a winter’s eve. And during this most wonderful time of the year, on a nippy night when you are sitting by the fireplace singing the songs you love to sing without a single stop, the sounds you hear in the hearth may be more than chestnuts going pop, pop, pop.

Acknowledgements

Bug of the Week thanks Professor Larry Hanks for identifying the handsome Neoclytus that crawled out of the firewood. The fascinating article “Essential Amino Acid Supplementation by Gut Microbes of a Wood-Feeding Cerambycid” by Paul A. Ayayee, Thomas Larsen, Cristina Rosa, Gary W. Felton, James G. Ferry, and Kelli Hoover provided valuable insights into the digestive wonders of cerambycid beetles.

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Raccoons are cute, clever, and found in all kinds of environments. From habitats in the countryside to those in the suburbs and urban areas, these masked bandits are known for their ability to coexist with humans. Raccoons are also notorious for the damage they can do and the health risks they pose.

If you find that raccoons are becoming a problem for your home, it may be time to explore some raccoon deterrent methods and prevention tips to make your house and yard less appealing to these adaptable pests. 

Understanding the Problem with Raccoons 

Raccoons are often considered a wildlife nuisance because they easily adapt easily to human-dominated landscapes. As a result, they often damage gardens, wreak havoc on farms, rummage through garbage, and even create damage indoors. Additionally, both young and old raccoons can transmit any number of viruses, bacteria, and other pathogens, including rabies. 

Why Raccoons Are Drawn to Residential Areas 

Residential areas are a rich resource for providing three vital elements — shelter, food, and water. Because these animals coexist so seamlessly with people in any setting, they are also comfortable making themselves at home as they search for what they need. In most cases, raccoons aren’t picky about where they find their water sources or the foods they eat. They will drink out of puddles and eat almost anything, including garden crops, compost, pet food, bird seed, and even garbage. 

Common Reasons Raccoons Are Attracted to Your Property 

It doesn’t matter if you live way out in a rural area or in the middle of a city. You could very easily end up dealing with raccoons getting into your garden, your garbage, or your home and other buildings on your property. When you understand why raccoons are attracted to human spaces, it’s easier to prevent them from becoming uninvited guests. 

Easy Access to Food Sources 

Like all living beings, raccoons need food to survive, and they don’t understand that your bird seed, compost, and garbage aren’t intended for them. Raccoons are omnivores that eat a mix of other animals and plants. In the wild, they often eat berries, nuts, small rodents, insects, and other items. In turn, humans often inadvertently offer up a buffet with easy access to food that tempts these masked bandits to move in and stay for a while.

Availability of Shelter 

Raccoons love to find spots of their own to call home. These adept critters can make shelters out of piles of leaves and yard debris or even stacks of firewood outside. They enter homes and other buildings that provide easy access, often through attics, chimneys, crawl spaces, and basements.

Raccoon Prevention Tips 

Although raccoons can cause plenty of problems, the news isn’t all bad. Putting some preventative measures into practice can help control many of the issues associated with these rodents. Once you know what attracts raccoons, you can begin forming a strategy to deter them. 

Securing Trash and Food Sources 

Raccoons are determined, persistent, and equipped with incredible dexterity that allows them to get into unsecured garbage cans and other containers. Once they find a property that offers up a consistent food source, they will keep coming back. To make your home and yard less appealing, consider the following: 

• Avoid feeding pets outdoors or stick to feeding pets outdoors in morning and afternoons, removing any uneaten food before evening. 
• Tie heavy-duty, lidded trash cans or store garbage in sheds or outbuildings to ensure they are secure or switch to pest-proof receptacles that have locking lids. 
• Use secure, sealed compost bins and place them 20 feet or more from the home. 
• Hang bird feeders on tall, thin poles with baffles in the middle to discourage raccoons from climbing. 

Managing Natural Attractants 

In addition to securing your trash and compost and avoiding leaving food out, it’s important to avoid other elements that can attract raccoons to your property. For instance, grubs and other insects offer a steady supply of food. Investing in regular pest control treatments to get rid of lawn grubs can help. Reducing easy access to drinking water can also aid your preventative strategy. For instance, consider removing pet water dishes, fixing leaking pipes, and enhancing drainage to reduce puddles. 

Yard Maintenance and Deterrents 

Keeping raccoons out of your yard requires regular maintenance. Keep the yard mowed regularly and remove debris, leaves, and brush to avoid providing these creatures with hiding and nesting spots. Consider implementing natural repellents and deterrents. For example, you can spray the perimeter of your property with a strongly scented solution like ammonia to deter raccoons, or you can mix up some cayenne pepper with hot sauce and water to spray garbage receptacles and other tempting areas. 

Other preventive measures to consider include installing motion-activated outdoor lighting or sprinklers near any zones with suspected raccoon activity to startle the animals and repel them. 

Sealing Entry Points Around Your Home 

Raccoons can be a real nuisance outside your home. Inside, they can be quite destructive and pose a health hazard. That’s why inspecting your home regularly to identify potential entry points is so crucial.

Identifying and Blocking Potential Entrances 

Take a walk around your home to evaluate how raccoons could enter. Raccoons can easily get inside by scampering up trellises and trees, climbing vines and downspouts, and sliding into holes, broken vents, uncapped chimneys, and openings along the roof line or foundation. To avoid this, keep trees and shrubs trimmed away from the home, cap chimneys, and seal any openings to keep raccoons and other pests out. 

Preventing Nesting in Attics and Sheds 

Block entry points with wadded newspaper to make sure no raccoons are already using them. If it remains undisturbed for three days, seal the area with metal flashing or wire mesh. Raccoons often gravitate toward out-of-the-way spots like attics, crawl spaces, and outbuildings. Inspect roof lines and junctions to ensure any possible holes or openings get sealed.

Natural and Humane Raccoon Deterrent Methods 

Focusing on the path of least harm is still effective. Humane methods of warding these pests off include using their known dislikes against them. By deterring and repelling them from your property, you can minimize the chances of one (or more) moving indoors without resorting to potentially harmful chemicals.

Scent-Based Deterrents 

Raccoons have a keen sense of smell, and they avoid particular scents, including mint, vinegar, spicy foods, and ammonia. Spraying these scents in raccoon-prone areas like around trash cans and gardens can provide effective deterrence. 

Sound and Light Deterrents 

As persistent and clever as raccoons are, they are also prone to avoid conflict. Anything that startles them, including motion-sensor lights and sprinkler systems, can serve as efficient deterrence. Additionally, ultrasonic devices that emit high-frequency sounds can help keep raccoons and other wildlife out of your spaces. 

When to Call Professional Wildlife Control 

Dealing with raccoons and other types of nuisance wildlife is rarely a DIY project, particularly once they move indoors. However, you can take many preventative steps and employ strategies to deter them from returning.

Recognizing When DIY Methods Aren’t Enough 

Have you tried everything and still find little paw prints as well as dark and tubular-shaped droppings with blunt ends and trash strewn about? When you employ DIY methods without success or find evidence of raccoons inside sheds, outbuildings, or your home, it’s time to call in the pros.

Benefits of Hiring a Wildlife Control Expert 

Dealing with wildlife on your own can be dangerous. Wildlife control experts have training and equipment to safely remove raccoons. Additionally, many states have protections in place regarding how and when you can remove raccoons to avoid separating mothers from their young. Experts can guide you through every step of the process and tailor a plan to your unique situation to ensure humane, effective results.

Call Catseye Pest Control for Raccoon Control 

Catseye Pest Control has decades of expertise dealing with raccoons, nuisance wildlife, and other pests. Our technicians are trained, licensed, and dedicated to finding solutions that will help you eliminate raccoons and keep them away. Contact Catseye today to learn more about our removal services or to schedule a free inspection.

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Over the past several weeks we explored different strategies employed by insects to survive winter’s chill.  Some migrate to warmer regions while others actually tolerate freezing or avoid freezing with cryoprotectants. A week or two ago, before the current arctic blast chased away daytime highs in the 60s and 70s, I received an almost fully engorged blacklegged tick from a friend. Fortunately, with confirmation that this ectoparasite was a blacklegged tick, my friend was able to begin a course of treatment to reduce the chances of contracting a tick-borne illness like Lyme disease.  While many arthropods enter a state of arrested development called diapause in late autumn, others like our pathogen–toting nemesis the blacklegged tick are a bit more opportunistic. Some may enter diapause but others may be active on warmish winter days even when snow is on the ground. According to tick experts at the University of Rhode Island, “Blacklegged (deer) tick adults are not killed by freezing temperatures. Even in the coldest regions of North America, these ticks can still be active on days when temperatures are above freezing and they’re not covered over by snow.”  A recent study in four Midwestern states found blacklegged ticks and other disease carrying species actively searching for a blood meal, a behavior called questing, on several days in January and February.

And in a classic case of “do as I say, not as I do”, last week after spending a couple of hours in a deer- laden forest near Antietam Battlefield, I awoke the next morning to find a partially engorged blacklegged tick nymph embedded on the inside of my left arm. Several past episodes of Bug of the Week have opined about ways to avoid being a meal for a tick, and quoting one, here is what I should have done before and after my jaunt in the woods:

“To reduce the risks of becoming a meal for a tick and the unfortunate recipient of alpha-gal, STARI, ehrlichiosis, or other tick-borne illnesses including Lyme disease, remember the word “AIR”. This stands for avoid, inspect, and remove.”

“A” – Avoid ticks and their bites in the following ways: When taking Fido for a walk, stick to the path, trail, or pavement. You are unlikely to encounter ticks on non-grassy surfaces. If you enter habitats where wildlife and ticks are likely to be present, such as grassy meadows, borders of fields and woodlands, and vegetation along the banks of streams, wear long pants and light-colored clothing. This will help you spot ticks on your clothes as they move up your body. Be a geek – tuck your pant legs into your socks. Pants tucked into socks force ticks to move up and over your clothes rather than under them where tasty skin awaits. Tuck that shirt into your pants as well. Apply repellents labeled for use in repelling ticks. Some are applied directly to skin, but others can be applied only to clothing. Don’t forget to treat your footwear, socks, and pant legs. Immature ticks, the rascally and hard to detect nymphs, are a key vector of diseases and these precautions will help prevent nymphs and adults from attaching to your skin. If repellents are used, be sure to read the label, follow directions carefully, and heed precautions, particularly those related to children. If your adventures take you into tick territory, consider placing your cloths directly into a clothes dryer rather than a hamper upon returning home. The heat of the dryer will kill hitchhiking ticks that might otherwise escape clothes in the hamper and cause trouble after your return home.

“I” – Inspect yourself, your family, and your pets thoroughly if you have been in tick habitats. Remember to do this when you return from the outdoors and when taking a shower. A thorough inspection may involve enlisting a helper to view those “hard to see” areas around back.  

“R” – Remove ticks promptly if you find them. Removal within the first 24 hours can greatly decrease your risk of contracting a disease. If you find a tick attached, firmly grasp the tick as close to your skin as possible using a pair of fine forceps and slowly, steadily pull the tick out. Cleanse the area with antiseptic. The CDC and the Bug Guy do not recommend methods of tick removal such as smearing the tick with petroleum jelly or scorching its rear end with a match. Cases of some tick-borne diseases such as Lyme disease are the most common in children and seniors, so take special care to keep kids of all ages safe when they play outdoors.”

Think ticks are done for the year? Think again. Warmer days in late autumn and winter mean ticks will be active during these seasons. Recently after a day in the field, I was surprised to find a blacklegged tick nymph embedded in my arm. Following unseasonably warm temperatures a short time ago, a friend sent me this almost fully engorged blacklegged tick. Blood in her grotesquely bloated abdomen will allow her to survive a feast-less winter and generate thousands of eggs to be laid next spring. Take precautions for avoiding tick borne illnesses by using tick repellents, putting cloths into the dryer when you get home, doing a tick inspection of people and pets, and removing ticks promptly if you have been in tick territory outdoors. If you have a tick, remove it, get it identified, and share this information with your physician to help avoid a serious illness.  

As winter temperatures rise during this period of climate change, we can expect ticks to be active on more days in late autumn, winter, and early spring. Be vigilant when you venture outdoors. Despite a morning low of 28 degrees Fahrenheit, today’s high is predicted to reach a balmy 40-some degrees, maybe warm enough for ticks to quest for a blood meal. Later today, when I work in the same deer-infested forest, I will follow the mantra of “AIR” and try to prevent another bodily incursion by the dreadful blacklegged tick.

Acknowledgements

Bug of the Week thanks Anne Marie for sharing her engorged tick and Dr. Shrewsbury for removing a tick embedded in my arm. The following interesting references were consulted to prepare this episode: “Winter Tick Activity” by The University of Rhode Island (anonymous), and “Unexpected winter questing activity of ticks in the Central Midwestern United States” by Ram K. Raghavan, Zoe L. Koestel, Gunavanthi Boorgula, Ali Hroobi, Roman Ganta, John Harrington Jr., Doug Goodin, Roger W. Stich, and Gary Anderson.

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The house mouse may be a tiny mammal, but it sure can create some big problems. By many accounts, house mice are among the most common mammals in the United States. Some scientists even refer to them as the “second most successful mammal” on the planet due to their adaptability to a broad variety of habitats. 

Given their population size and ability to live just about anywhere, it’s no wonder these small critters account for approximately 68% of rodent service calls. If you are among the millions of Americans with a mouse problem, you’re certainly not alone. Learn more about the house mouse’s appearance, how to identify them, and what to do for long-term control.

Why Identifying House Mice Is Important 

Every infestation is unique and requires a tailored approach for effective removal. Different species exhibit different nesting behaviors and pose varying disease risks. In short, identifying house mice is critical to ensure that removal and treatment plans are successful.

The Impact of House Mouse Infestations on Homes 

House mice pose several threats once they invade human spaces. First, they can damage furniture, appliances, insulation, and structural elements within the home. Like all rodents, they constantly gnaw on materials, which could include siding, baseboards, support beams, and even wiring.

Second, house mice can contaminate a home with any number of rodent-borne diseases, including: 

• Hantavirus, which can cause fever, muscle aches, and fatigue. It can also develop into a serious form of illness, which includes respiratory difficulties and low blood pressure. 
• Rat bite fever, which is caused by bacteria spread by handling house mice or consuming food and beverages they contaminate. 
• Salmonella, a bacterial infection that can cause digestive problems that may be severe in some people. 
• Lymphocytic choriomeningitis, an infectious viral illness that house mice can transmit, causing flu-like symptoms that can progress to more severe neurological symptoms like motor dysfunction, stiff neck, and sensory issues. 

Physical Characteristics of House Mice 

What does a house mouse look like? Let’s explore this rodent’s typical physical characteristics so you know what to look for in case of a house mouse infestation in your home.

Size and Body Shape 

House mice are small, with tails that can sometimes be as long as the rest of their bodies. Their rounded bodies average 2.5 inches to 3.75 inches in length, with nearly hairless tails that can be anywhere from 2.75 inches to four inches long. 

Color and Fur Texture 

House mice have short, relatively smooth fur. They are often a dusty gray color with cream-colored bellies. However, their coloring can vary from black to light brown. 

Distinguishing Features 

House mice have short hind feet, pointed muzzles, and large, nearly hairless ears. The small, slender mice also have scale rings on their tails and slightly protruding black eyes. 

House Mouse vs. Field Mouse: Key Differences 

At a glance, house mice and field mice can look similar. However, when you understand the differences in their appearance and behavior, it’s easier to tell them apart.

Physical Appearance Differences 

Like house mice, deer mice have rounded bodies. However, they are slightly larger, typically ranging from five inches to eight inches in length. Field mice typically have tan or brown fur with two-toned tails that are darker on top and white feet, legs, and bellies. 

Habitat and Behavior 

House mice are perfectly comfortable living just about anywhere, including urban and residential areas. Both may enter homes and other buildings year-round, particularly as they search out places to go for the winter. House mice are highly adaptable and thrive in human environments, often living entirely indoors in cities where they survive on crumbs and accessible food sources. Unlike other mouse species, house mice are more neophobic, meaning they are cautious of new objects like traps, making them harder to catch and control. This behavior highlights the importance of professional pest control methods tailored to outsmart these elusive rodents.

Field mice, on the other hand, typically stick to open areas, like parks, fields, and forests. One of the primary behavioral differences is the field mouse’s habit of stockpiling food in and near their nests. 

Signs of a House Mouse Infestation 

House mice are typically most active at night, usually feeding around dusk and dawn. They are sneaky little creatures that tend to be more active when humans are asleep, so you may not see them in action or spot a live mouse. Instead, you will likely find other indicators that send up a red flag. 

Common Indicators to Look For 

• Droppings, usually dark colored with pointy ends and about the size of a grain of rice (1/8 to 1/4 inch long) 
• Damaged items in pantries, on counters, and in other areas 
• Tracks and rub marks, which mice can leave as they travel along walls and walkways in search of food 
• Gnaw marks on food packages, walls, and other items 
• Burrows, including into insulation 
• Odors, which increase in intensity as the infestation grows 

Inspecting Your Home for Mice

Performing a thorough home inspection can help you discover where mice are nesting. It can also help you identify where and how they are getting inside. Some places to focus on as you look for mice and any openings they are using (as small as the width of a dime) include: 

• Inside, behind, and under kitchen and bathroom cabinets and appliances 
• Around vents and utility lines, which may have gaps just large enough for a house mouse to squeeze through 
• Around fireplaces, closet floors, and doors 

What to Do If You Suspect a Mouse Infestation 

If you think you have a mouse problem, swift action is critical. These rodents are known to breed quickly, and infestations can rapidly grow larger when left unchecked.

DIY Prevention and Control Methods 

Although you can try traps and bait stations, prevention really is the best cure. DIY control methods often fail to eliminate the problem because you never really get to the root of it. However, preventative steps can provide effective long-term control. Some actions to consider include: 

• Storing all food, including pet food and bird seed, in airtight, lidded containers 
• Reducing clutter to eliminate potential hiding and nesting spots 
• Regularly cleaning all eating areas, wiping up spills, and washing dishes immediately after eating 
• Vacuuming or sweeping floors frequently to reduce crumbs

When to Call Professional Pest Control 

If you think you have house mice in your home, don’t delay. Contacting a professional pest control company quickly can ensure that the mice are evicted swiftly and permanently. Pros have the training and equipment to not only identify house mice and other pests, but also to safely deal with them. That means you and your family will be safer, the chances of diseases spreading will be reduced, and you can enjoy peace of mind.

Contact Catseye Pest Control for Mouse Control 

Catseye has decades of expertise in rodent removal. Our licensed technicians will perform a thorough inspection to determine exactly what is going on. Not only will we get rid of the mice, but we will also work with you to make sure they don’t come back. From removal and treatment to disinfection and repairing damages, we are here to help. Contact Catseye today to learn more or to schedule a free inspection.

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Previously, we learned that some butterflies and true bugs (Hemiptera) simply migrate from frosty regions to warmer, more benign regions in the south to avoid potentially lethal subfreezing temperatures in temperate regions including the DMV. Last week, we discovered how insects known as “freeze tolerant” defy death when the weather turns chilly by producing ice-nucleating compounds that allow water molecules to freeze in extracellular spaces in their body, thereby minimizing destruction and death of cells. These insects also manufacture cryoprotectants that act like antifreeze to prevent tissues from freezing. A third way to survive chilly temperatures in cold places involves a strategy known as freeze avoidance. From a physiological standpoint, freeze avoiders don’t produce ice-nucleating compounds to facilitate the formation of extracellular ice. In fact, they eliminate ice-nucleators like food and microbes to prevent formation of ice in their body. However, like their freeze tolerant relatives, freeze avoiders produce cryoprotectants, including sugar alcohols like glycerol, sorbitol, trehalose. These compounds significantly lower the super cooling point, the temperature at which insects freeze. Additional compounds including antifreeze proteins may also help prevent the formation of ice in the insect’s hemolymph and help prevent internal ice from forming due to exposure to ice outside of the insect’s body. Insects employing freeze avoidance often cheat death until temperatures drop between -4 to – 40 degrees Fahrenheit. However, some juvenile stages of the emerald ash borer survive temperatures as low as – 60 degrees Fahrenheit in parts of Canada. As with freeze-tolerant insects, cues such as changing food availability and quality, changing day length, and cooling temperatures initiate physiological processes to prepare the insect to enter a stage of suspended development called diapause during winter.

Insects living in cold places have evolved clever ways to avoid a chilly death. Dastardly emerald ash borers, killers of ash trees, survive winter temperatures as low as –60 degrees Fahrenheit in parts of Canada. Larval survival is aided by cryoprotectants in their hemolymph. Many ground beetles, like Scarites, move beneath rocks and into the soil to take advantage of the ‘warmer-than-air’ refuge provided by Mother Earth. Some juvenile Lepidoptera like fall webworm caterpillars move from treetops to the ground to pupate. They find thermal refuges under leaves or in soil. Cryoprotectant compounds in their blood and tissues help to avoid a chilly death in winter. Not all insects can tolerate historically “normal” winter lows here in the DMV. Invaders from the south, including harlequin bugs and kudzu bugs, are banished from our region periodically when temperatures dip to the low teens and single digits.

In addition to physiological adaptations enabling insects to tolerate cold wintry temperatures, many have evolved clever behaviors to help avoid cold stress. For example, several species of ground beetles, kin to Scarites beetles we met previously, burrow into the soil to take advantage of the ‘warmer-than-air’ refuge provided by the relatively stable and benign temperatures of the Mother Earth.  Other species like fall webworm caterpillars move from the tree tops and wiggle below leaf litter or burrow into cracks in the soil to pupate in autumn, and to gain a thermal refuge from freezing air temperatures. Fall webworms are freeze avoiders and appear to use both trehalose and antifreeze proteins to help them survive winter’s chill. Ah, but not all insects in wintry regions like the DMV are as clever or as lucky as migrants, freeze tolerators, and freeze avoiders we have met in the past month. Some southern visitors to Maryland like harlequin bugs and kudzu bugs have little ability to tolerate our zone 7 and 8 temperatures that dip into the low teens or single digits. In this game of climate change and thermal roulette, a few warm winters of bliss followed by one of single digits, spells local extirpation for species lacking cold tolerance.

Acknowledgements

 The following articles provided fascinating insights into the overwintering and anti-freezing strategies of insects: “Insect antifreezes and ice-nucleating agents” by John G. Duman, “Cold Hardiness of Insects and the Impact of Fluctuating Temperatures” by Ashley Dean and Erin Hodgson, “Insect overwintering in a changing climate” by J. S. Bale and S. A. L. Hayward, “Insects and low temperatures: from molecular biology to distributions and abundance” by J. S. Bale, “ Plasticity drives extreme cold tolerance of emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) during a polar vortex” by Meghan E. Duell, Meghan T. Gray, Amanda D. Roe, Chris J.K. MacQuarrie, and Brent J. Sinclair, “Landscape effects on the thermotolerance of carabid beetles and the role of behavioral thermoregulation” by Lucy Alford, Sacha Roudine, Jean‐Sébastien Pierre, Françoise Burel, and Joan van Baaren, and “Cold hardiness characteristic of the overwintering pupae of fall webworm Hyphantria cunea (Drury) (Lepidoptera: Arctiidae) in the northeast of China” by Xiao-Rui Xu, Ming-Ming Zhu, Liang-Liang, Guang-Cai Zhang, Ye Zheng, Ting Li, and Shou-Hui Sun.

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