Mellow mallow bees, Ptilothrix bombiformis

Mellow mallow bees, Ptilothrix bombiformis

 

This pretty Ptilothrix bombiformis took a time-out from the business of gathering food for her young to glam for the bug geek with a camera.

 

In 1966 during the construction of the planned city of Columbia, MD, a 27-acre reservoir named Lake Kittamaqundi was created from several unnamed tributaries of the Little Patuxent River. In the intervening decades, along the banks of Kittamaqundi patches of marshmallow, Althaea officinalis, put down roots and now show off their dazzling floral displays, five large petals dressed in shades of white, lavender, pink, and purple. From June into early autumn, marshmallows and other members of the hibiscus clan are visited by Ptilothrix bombiformis, an apid bee that specializes on members of the mallow clan. An encounter with this charming bee began on a sunny morning while walking along a trail that circumnavigates the lake. My eagle-eyed companion noticed several small bees darting in and out of turreted pencil-sized holes in the hard clay soil on the bank of the lake. These cute bees, Ptilothrix bombiformis, are unique in that they are one of only two species in the genus Ptilothrix found in the US.  Ptilothrix bombiformis occurs mostly in the eastern half of the US and its sister species occurs in Arizona and New Mexico.

A Ptilothrix bee begins to build her nest by wetting hard mud and digging with jaws and legs. Off she goes to get more water for softening the soil. She regurgitates water to moisten the soil and work it into a turret for her nest. Beneath the earth, water is mixed with soil and mud pellets are removed to enlarge the gallery. Then off she goes to visit mallow blossoms for nectar and pollen. She returns to her nest with provisions to sustain her brood as they grow and develop underground.

Piles of irregularly shaped mud pellets surrounding a turreted hole in the ground mark the nest site of Ptilothrix bombiformis.

These industrious bees construct nests in soil. To excavate galleries in hard-packed earth, females land on the surface of the lake, imbibe water, fly back to the nest site, and regurgitate the water to moisten and loosen the soil. During nest construction the area around each gallery is littered with an array of small mud pellets deposited by the bee as she removes soil to construct the subterranean nursery for her young. Watching these clever bees roll mud balls with their hind legs out of the gallery is highly entertaining. In a nearby patch of marshmallows, mothers gather nectar and pollen to provision their nest with pollen cakes for their young. After providing sufficient food for their brood, the female bee seals the gallery with a plug of mud to prevent parasites and predators from entering the nursery and devouring her youngsters. Ptilothrix bombiformis has taken advantage of human-made features such as the aforementioned shores of Lake Kittamaqundi and roadways passing through marshlands as favorable habitats to construct their nests. Ornamental members of the mallow clan, including Rose-of-Sharon found in residential landscapes are used as sources of nectar and pollen. These behaviors provide opportunities to meet these bees. With some luck and a little nature-focused attention, you may catch a glimpse of these mellow mallow bees in the blossom of a hibiscus or busily tending their pellet-strewn nest sites along the banks of a lake or trails through a marsh.

Acknowledgements

Once again, we thank Sam Droege for generously taking time to identify Ptilothrix bombiformis and share his wisdom about these beauties. Information about the bees featured this week came from Joseph S. Wilson and Olivia Messinger Carril’s amazing book “The Bees in Your Backyard”, and “The Biology of Ptilothrix bombiformis (Hymenoptera: Anthophoridae)” by Richard W. Rust. Many thanks to Professor Shrewsbury for spotting the nest site of Ptilothrix bombiformis and providing video for this episode.

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Throwback Monday: Recyclers in the circle of life – Bess beetles, Odontotaenius disjunctus

 

Look who is recycling a dead tree of heaven branch – a family of bess beetles.

 

Two weeks ago, while moving some decomposing logs, I encountered almost mature larvae of bess beetles. Now this may not seem exciting to you, but I have not witnessed these alive in the wild for more than three decades. So, to share this rather unusual event, we will revisit a popular episode from the days of covid in 2020 with the addition of a new video and one new image. Hope you enjoy the episode.

While clearing some logs in Washington County, MD, I encountered a family of bess beetles. One adult and several almost mature larvae were recycling a decomposing tree of heaven branch. Look at the size of the larval galleries in the wood. Don’t worry, after recording the happy family, the branch was returned and the beetles resumed their ecosystem service of repurposing dead wood. 

These powerful jaws can gnaw through even super-tough wood like oak.

This week we meet one of Mother Nature’s champion recyclers, bess beetles, whose mission it is to repurpose tough wood fibers into cute beetle larvae. During the past week or two while wandering wooded trails, I have enjoyed several encounters with magnificent bess beetles as they scurried about the forest floor. Coincidentally, several images of bess beetles have arrived in my mailbox from other folks curious to learn about these lumbering beauties. Bess beetles are also known as the horned Passalus and as patent leather beetles by virtue of their shiny black color (young adults have deep red/brown coloration that darkens to black) and notable horns. These powerful beetles are important participants in the great circle of life. No, they do not occupy an exalted place at the top of the food chain like Mufasa, the Lion King. They sit near the bottom of the heap along with fungi and bacteria, where they help decompose fibrous wood. Adult bess beetles use strong jaws to gnaw and ingest wood. After being processed in the beetle’s digestive system and deposited back in the wood, the microbe-packed droppings, a.k.a. frass, are consumed by bess beetle larvae. The microbes contained in the leavings of the adult beetles are particularly important for young larvae that require parental microorganisms to help them digest wood. Tough plant tissues such as lignin and cellulose are indigestible to us, but the gut microbiome of the bess beetle and resident microbes found in decaying wood enable bess beetles to capture nutrients as they recycle tough plant polymers.

Bess beetles are among the champion recyclers of the insect world. A remarkable microbiome in their gut enables bess beetles to breakdown tough polymers found in wood and extract nutrients locked up inside. Now is a great time to observe bess beetles as they scramble across the forest floor or recycle wood beneath the bark of fallen trees.

Dilemma for a bess beetle at a picnic, “Do I go for the hamburger bun or find a dead tree to eat?” Image credit: Ashley May

Upon plucking a bess beetle from the forest trail, I was intrigued to hear it squeak. Bess beetles are able to produce sound by rubbing their wings across a rasp-like structure on the upper surface of their back just beneath the hard wing covers. This form of sound production is called stridulation. Many beetles, such as the big Bornean beetles we met on February 19, 2024 in “Picking up good vibrations”, stridulate. The larvae of bess beetles are somewhat unique in that they also stridulate by rubbing together two sections of their legs. Several authors suggest squeaking sounds enable both larvae and adults to communicate with others in the decomposing wood. One account indicates that larvae follow the calls of adults in the colony. Perhaps this is a way for parents to assist their babies in discovering food or maybe it conveys a message akin to “eat your vegetables.” Other scientists believe the calls may frighten would-be predators. To learn the true nature of the call of the bess beetle, I made a recording of the sound. By playing the sound backward at very slow speed, the beetles could clearly be heard trilling the Gershwin classic “summer time and the livin’ is easy.” I guess summer must have arrived.

Acknowledgements

Bug of the Week thanks Ashley May for inspiring this episode and providing the nice image of a bess beetle that apparently joined her picnic. Dr. Shrewsbury helped wrangle bess beetles in the wild. Information for this Bug of the Week came from two fascinating papers “Gut anatomical properties and microbial functional assembly promote lignocellulose deconstruction and colony subsistence of a wood-feeding beetle” by Javier A. Ceja-Navarro, Ulas Karaoz, Markus Bill, Zhao Hao, Richard A. White, Abelardo Arellano, Leila Ramanculova, Timothy R. Filley, Timothy D. Berry, Mark E. Conrad, Meredith Blackwell, Carrie D. Nicora, Young-Mo Kim, Patrick N. Reardon, Mary S. Lipton, Joshua N. Adkins, Jennifer Pett-Ridge, and Eoin L. Brodie, and “Observations on the life history of the horned Passalus” by L.E. Gray.

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How to Keep Squirrels Away from Your House 

In the wild, squirrels play an important environmental role and are often referred to as one of nature’s essential gardeners1. These members of the Sciuridae family, which includes other small and medium-sized rodents, spread nuts and seeds with their playful activities. When left buried and forgotten, these elements grow into new plants and trees2, replenishing nature and contributing to a healthy ecosystem. They even have their own holiday, National Squirrel Appreciation Day, which falls on January 21. 

Despite their many benefits, squirrels can pose a risk to human health and safety and the structural integrity of your home. Catseye Pest Control has helped homeowners learn how to keep squirrels away from their homes for decades and understands the challenges of human-squirrel interactions.  

Explore the importance of squirrel-proofing your home and garden and get tips on how to deter these inquisitive critters below.  

Introduction to Squirrel Deterrence 

Like any wild animals, squirrels love to scamper around in nature, and it may not be possible to completely prevent them from scampering around your property. However, it is within your power to make your home less attractive to them as a living space. In turn, you can take steps to reduce their negative impact, which can range from minor annoyances like knocked-over bird feeders to serious issues like health risks345.  

Why Keeping Squirrels Away Matters 

With their bushy tails and climbing hijinks, squirrels can be a lot of fun to watch in the wild. However, when they decide to set up shop on your property, they can cause significant damage. From digging up your garden to chewing holes in siding to gnawing on wires, squirrel activities can turn into more than just a nuisance.  

Common Issues Caused by Squirrels 

Notoriously, squirrels love raiding easy access birdfeeders. Although it can be aggravating, this habit is the least of the trouble squirrels can cause. Other common challenges associated with squirrels in the house include: 

  • Gnawed electrical wires (indoors and out) can cause electrical fires.  
  • Chewed insulation can hamper homes’ energy efficiency and send energy costs soaring. 
  • Structural damage could include gnawed siding, walls, beams, and other architectural elements. 
  • Loss of garden crops could result from squirrels foraging. 
  • Urine and droppings cause germ-filled messes, particularly indoors. 
  • Potential contamination of surfaces could spread diseases like tularemia, plague, and typhus6. 
  • Spread of secondary pests like mites, ticks, and parasites is dangerous for inhabitants. 
A gray squirrel leans from a tree branch with reddish foliage to grab at a bird feeder

Understanding Squirrel Behavior 

When you understand how squirrels typically behave and what attracts them, you can better deter them and keep them away from your home and garden. In the wild, they can live as long as six years and often choose sheltered areas like hollow tree trunks to build their nests7. However, they can also be very opportunistic and take advantage of readily available food, water, and shelter.  

Additionally, squirrels tend to be social8. That means if you have one squirrel nesting in your home, you may very well have several others living there, as well. 

What Attracts Squirrels to Homes and Gardens? 

Outdoors, the scent of food, including fruits, vegetables, and plants like daisies and tulips, can be a powerful lure9. Birdfeeders and fallen seeds and nuts also attract these rambunctious rodents, as do water sources and the allure of safe shelters, including overgrown lawns and shrubbery.  

Squirrel Feeding and Nesting Habits 

Squirrels eat more than just nuts and seeds. These fluffy-tailed home invaders also eat fungi, fruits, small insects, young snakes, eggs, insects, and caterpillars. To protect their food sources, they often bury their food to ensure they have nourishment once the weather turns cold. They typically nest in tree branches and cavities during warm weather. However, once the temperatures dip, they often start moving indoors to get warm and cozy for the winter10. 

Natural Deterrents and Repellents 

Squirrels have a keen sense of smell, which can work in your favor when employing natural repellents. However, it’s essential to keep in mind that squirrel repellent methods are a temporary fix. Keeping squirrels away permanently will require a layered approach and professional expertise11.  

Using Plant-Based Repellents 

Using plants, powders, and sprays made with scents that squirrels hate can help keep them away. For example, you can use ground cinnamon or fresh garlic around gardens, property perimeters, and bird feeders. Sprinkling mothballs, which contain naphthalene, or strongly scented laundry products can send squirrels scurrying. However, once the scent fades or gets rained away, they are likely to return. 

Benefits of Predator Scents 

Squirrels use their keen sense of smell as part of their strategy to evade predators. Homeowners can use that to their advantage by applying products that mimic the odor of predators’ urine. Predator scents effectively warn the rodents to stay away from the property. 

DIY Squirrel Deterrent Recipes 

Ready to try your hand at a homemade squirrel deterrent? Make a DIY spray by combining the strong scents of pepper, cinnamon, garlic, and apple cider vinegar and spray it in squirrel hotspots. Another popular DIY solution combines water with cayenne and a few drops of dishwashing liquid12. 

Physical Barriers and Modifications 

Although natural remedies and DIY deterrents may provide temporary relief from squirrel activity, strategic modifications can have lasting effects. For example, you might consider installing rodent and wildlife exclusion systems like Cat-Guard Exclusion Systems for targeted or whole-home protection that incorporates a rigid, chemical-free barrier. Sealing entry points, being mindful about gardens and feeders, and using fencing to your advantage can also help keep squirrels away.  

Securing Entry Points to Attics and Basements 

Trim shrubs and tree branches away from your home and thin out any dense shrubbery near the foundation to help eliminate easy access. Routinely inspect the perimeter of your home and seal up any holes that squirrels may be using to enter and exit — but only do so after removing the squirrels from inside13.  

Squirrel-Proofing Bird Feeders and Gardens 

Buying squirrel-resistant feeders is a step in the right direction, but it’s only one of the many strategies you can use. Other ways to hamper squirrel activity include the following1415: 

  • Move feeders at least 10 feet from the closest spot they could jump from to gain access. 
  • Add baffles or a slinky to bird feeder poles to discourage squirrels from climbing up them. 
  • Swap your birdseed to a blend that includes safflower seed and milk thistle, which are less appetizing to squirrels. 
  • Try hanging a bar of strongly scented soap like Irish Spring near feeders and gardens to help repel squirrels and other foraging rodents. 
  • Sprinkle cayenne pepper or chili pepper flakes on the ground in the garden or in bird seed. 
  • Add row covers or bird netting to gardens to protect your crops without hampering sun exposure. 
  • Install motion-activated sprinklers, which will startle curious invaders and encourage them to stay away. 

Using Fencing and Netting Effectively 

Row covers and netting can protect crops. Metal fencing, which should be buried a minimum of six inches into the ground, can also help keep squirrels out of protected areas16. 

Habitat Modification to Discourage Squirrels 

Taking a proactive approach is critical to preventing squirrels from moving into your space. Three easy ways to do so include eliminating food sources, tidying up the landscape, and securing garbage and compost.  

Removing Food Sources 

Squirrels will take advantage of easy access. Picking up fallen fruit, seeds, and nuts and taking care to ensure food items are stored properly can help mitigate the risk17.  

Altering the Landscape to Reduce Attraction 

Keeping landscaping trimmed and tidy can reduce potential shelters and nesting sites. Additionally, planting natural repellents like marigolds, daffodils, peppermint, and mustard can help make your property less attractive18.  

Tips for Garbage and Compost Management 

Unsecured garbage and compost piles can be like an all-you-can-eat buffet, not only for squirrels but also for other rodents and wildlife. Choose wildlife-proof receptacles with tight fitting lids and place compost bins on a cement pad to eliminate burrowing nuisances19.  

When to Get Professional Help for Squirrel Removal 

Modifying habitats and relying on DIY deterrents won’t always get the job done. These agile creatures play a beneficial role in the environment and pose a risk if they defend themselves by biting or scratching you. Don’t try to eradicate a squirrel problem on your own. Instead, lean on professionals who can inspect your property, assess the situation, and devise the most effective removal, sanitation, and prevention program for lasting success.  

Contact Catseye today to partner with industry leaders with the expertise needed to remove squirrels from your home and prevent them from returning.  

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Early rising bees in the pumpkin patch: Eastern cucurbit bee, Peponapis pruinosa, and two-spotted longhorn bee, Melissodes bimaculatus

 

Good morning, sir! A male eastern cucurbit bee greets the camera while another gathers food in a pumpkin blossom.

 

Each year I try to grow pumpkins in my suburban landscape in Columbia, MD. Each year roving gangs of white-tailed deer invade my landscape and pillage my pumpkins despite my best attempts to shoo them away or assuage their damage by dousing my pumpkins with deer repellent. One morning last week, shortly after sunrise, while mourning the loss of yet another batch of pumpkin leaves, I was fascinated by clusters of solitary bees jockeying for position to gather nectar and pollen from newly opened blossoms of pumpkins. One of the most entertaining was the eastern cucurbit bee, Peponapis pruinosa. The genus name Peponapis literally means “pumpkin bee.” Sometimes as many as four of these rascals with their stripy abdomens tussled for access to nectaries deep inside the blossom. These wonderful bees are specialists, collecting pollen only from members of the squash family. Females construct burrows in soil a foot or more in depth and prepare several brood chambers along the gallery. Each chamber is provisioned with pollen and nectar to feed the developing young. Larvae develop through summer and autumn and emerge next spring when squash, pumpkins, and other cucurbits start to bloom. While females toil to build their subterranean nurseries, when blossoms close in the mid-morning heat, males can sometimes be found resting inside closed blossoms. These native bees evolved to pollinate their cucurbit hosts and can be found from Canada to Mexico.

Early one morning I stopped by my pumpkin patch and caught a glimpse of eastern cucurbit bees mobbing pumpkin blossoms. They were gathering nectar and pollen to feed their young. Nearby, a two-spotted longhorn bee tidied up a bit before moving to another blossom. Look at the size of her pollen loads. Her legs look like saddlebags. Wow!

A female two-spotted longhorn bee shares a blossom with an eastern cucurbit bee at dawn.

Zooming about my pumpkin patch, but not as numerous as Peponapis, was a gorgeous black bee with smokey black wings and two white tufts of hairs on its abdomen. Melissodes bimaculatus goes by the name of two-spotted longhorn bee. Unlike Peponapis, this native solitary bee is more of a generalist. I often see it gathering nectar and pollen from my cone flowers and other members of the aster family in addition to its sorties at my pumpkins. Hind legs of female bees are festooned with stout hairs called scopa which are used to collect pollen. When fully loaded they look like yellow saddle bags. Like Peponapis, female two-spotted longhorn bees tunnel in the soil and provision brood chambers with nectar and pollen to feed their young. Although these are solitary bees, they often form large aggregations of nests in areas with loose soils that they prefer.  

If you grow pumpkins, squash, zucchini, or cucumbers and you live in the eastern US, grab your cup of coffee and head to the cucurbit patch early in the morning to enjoy these entertaining and beautiful native pollinators. 

Acknowledgements

Bug of the Week thanks Sam Droege for generously taking time to identify the heroes of this episode. Information about the bees featured this week came from Tufts Pollinator Initiative, and Joseph S. Wilson and Olivia Messinger Carril’s amazing book “The Bees in Your Backyard”.     

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Ensuring a Pest-Free Restaurant Kitchen 

The restaurant industry is breaking records in 2024. According to the National Restaurant Association, restaurant sales are set to exceed $1 trillion for the first time ever in 2024. Even so, research shows that consumers are approaching spending cautiously, reserving their time for establishments that offer excellent experiences.  

To serve up what customers are craving, it’s essential to maintain a clean, pest-free environment. As decades-long industry leaders throughout the region, Catseye Pest Control has provided exceptional restaurant pest management services and support to help restaurants achieve just that.  

Introduction to Pest Control in Restaurants 

Keeping pests off the menu is absolutely critical. Restaurants offer an inviting environment that, if management isn’t careful, is like a giant “Open” sign for flies, rodents, cockroaches, and other pests. Restaurant kitchens, storage and prep areas, and other parts of the property offer up the three primary elements pests seek out: shelter, food, and water. Additionally, the constant influx of foot traffic, with doors frequently opening and closing, also increases the risk of a critter slipping in. 

Pests pose a significant danger because they can contaminate foods and surfaces, hasten food spoilage, and even gnaw on wiring. Keeping pests out of restaurants is crucial to protect customers, employees, brand image, and the bottom line.  

Common Challenges in Keeping Kitchens Pest Free 

In the bustle of a busy commercial kitchen, any number of issues can fan the flames of pest activity. Some primary challenges restaurant owners face include the following:  

  • Strict sanitation and storage methods to mitigate risks 
  • Need for comprehensive employee training to ensure everyone is aware of what to watch out for and what to do to prevent pest activity 
  • Multiple potential entry points  
  • High volume of foot traffic, both in the “front of house” and behind-the-scenes 
  • Possible spread of pest activity from adjoining properties  

Common Pests in Restaurant Kitchens 

Various pests can infest kitchens; however, some of more common than others. Some of the most prevalent restaurant pests include insects, like flies and cockroaches, and rodents. Let’s look at each in more detail.  

Rodents 

Rodents are among the most common troublemakers in restaurants and commercial kitchens. Rats and mice seek out warmth and safe shelters, along with food and water — all of which are in plentiful supply in these settings. Rats, including Norway and roof rats, can slip through cracks as small as a quarter, while mice can squeeze into openings as tiny as a dime. Rodents are active at night, cause significant damage, and can carry dozens of diseases that put everyone’s health in jeopardy. 

Flies 

Flies are particularly problematic in summer, although they can happen anytime. House flies, drain flies, and fruit flies are common restaurant invaders who love the hot, humid conditions of a commercial kitchen. These pests can spread bacteria and other pathogens, including E. coli, salmonella, typhoid fever, and cholera. They lay eggs in moisture-rich spots, including spoiling produce, dumpsters and garbage bins, and standing water. 

Cockroaches 

The dreaded cockroach has been around since prehistoric times and is one of the most common pests in restaurants. These insects can enter the premises through plumbing lines, supply deliveries, and vent openings, lured by the scent of food. Cockroaches often hide in cabinets, drains, furniture, sinks, pipelines, and beneath appliances. The primary danger comes from the various diseases that cockroaches carry, and their ability to contaminate food and surfaces with disease-causing pathogens. Cockroaches can spread illnesses like plague, salmonella, cholera, and typhoid fever. 

Other Restaurant Pests 

Stored panty goods, like flour and grains, can be susceptible to various pests, including flour beetles, bean weevils, and Indianmeal moths. Additionally, any number of insects, including mosquitoes, and nuisance wildlife, such as birds, bats, and raccoons, could also pose a risk to healthy restaurant operations.  

Importance of a Pest-Free Environment 

Pest control can make or break a restaurant’s reputation. According to the data from a recent survey, restaurants could lose 76 percent or more of their customers if they see pests in the restaurant. Additionally, another 56 percent of patrons will alert others to the experience via social media or blog posts and negative reviews. This information illustrates both the immediate and ripple effects infestations can have. It also underscores just how serious maintaining a pest-free environment can be for maintaining a positive reputation.  

While reputation is critical, it’s only one factor to consider. 

Health and Safety Compliance 

Health and safety oversight comes from several agencies, including those on a federal and state level. Restaurant owners are required to protect public health. This includes maintaining a pest-free environment because restaurant pests are a health hazard. They can contaminate food, hasten spoilage, and wreak havoc with structure damage. 

Pest control in the restaurant kitchen and the rest of the property is essential to reduce the risk of exposing patrons to foodborne illnesses. It’s also vital to keep employees healthy and safe. 

Financial Implications of Pest Infestations 

Pest infestations can cost restaurants in several ways. Lost revenue because of infestations costs U.S. businesses billions of dollars annually. The negative impact on the eatery’s reputation can have lasting repercussions. Additionally, infestations can lead to shutdowns and fines from the health department and regulatory authorities. 

A restaurant patron holding a child on their lap holds a fly up off a white plate of grilled chicken; blurred restaurant in the background.

Implementing an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Program 

Taking a proactive approach to preventing pest infestations and providing effective restaurant pest control is mission-critical for restaurants and commercial kitchens. That’s precisely what an integrated pest management (IPM) approach offers. This strategy focuses primarily on prevention and using pesticides only when and if they’re needed. 

Principles of IPM in Restaurants 

IPM is a multifaceted strategy that incorporates multiple principles to achieve pest control in restaurant kitchens and the rest of the property. However, no two restaurants have identical risks and needs and IPM must be tailored to each commercial property’s requirements and goals. 

Step 1: Assessment – Identifying Pest Hotspots 

IPM requires starting with a thorough inspection — inside and out — of the restaurant, including the kitchen, food storage, dining areas, and outdoor spaces. This allows technicians to identify any pests present, which provides the details necessary for targeted elimination protocols. It also can help pinpoint areas pests are or could enter the establishment, build nests, and hide. 

Step 2: Prevention – Proactive Measures 

After the initial assessment, you’ll have all the information you need to tackle commercial kitchen pest control head on. For instance, Restaurant A might have multiple openings where pests get in, and a dumpster located too close to the building. Restaurant B might require a heavier focus on educating staff and building occupants on IPM and maintaining stricter sanitation in food prep, dining, and storage areas. An IPM approach provides active measures to take to help prevent pests and keep them out of the building. 

Step 3: Control – Choosing Appropriate Methods 

Control includes pesticide application when needed. However, non-chemical control methods are often the first line of defense, including trapping and removal, heat or cold treatments, and installing barriers once all pests are removed. The idea is to employ the lowest risk options first to achieve effective control that also considers safety and environmental health. 

Step 4: Monitoring – Ensuring Continued Effectiveness 

Routine monitoring is a vital step in the process. It ensures that the control methods utilized are doing their job. Monitoring also provides early warnings in case of resurgence or new pest activity. The earlier you can catch a potential infestation, the easier you can get control of the situation.  

Professional Pest Control Solutions 

Restaurant pest management is critical to maintain a healthy environment and thriving business. Professionals have the extensive expertise needed to customize IPM programs for effective commercial kitchen pest control. Relying on the pros takes the pressure off the rest of the staff, leaving them more time to focus on their individual tasks.  

When to Call in the Experts 

Don’t wait until you see a cockroach skittering across the floor or a mouse scampering through the pantry. Partnering with the right pest control company from the beginning can help keep restaurant operations running smoothly. Also, the experts will take an active role in helping to prevent problems before they have a chance to start. 

Selecting a Pest Control Provider 

Choosing the right provider is everything. Just like choosing a great supplier and vendor can make a difference, so can the pest control company restaurants partner with. Look for a provider that specializes in an IPM approach for restaurants and other commercial properties. Consider their years of service and reputation in the community, and getting feedback from other customers, when possible, to become familiar with their level of service.  

Catseye is an industry leader in providing innovative, customized solutions and has decades of experience in the field. Additionally, offering each customer an exceptional experience with clear communication and customized pest control and prevention plans is at the core of the company’s mission.  

Keeping pests out of restaurants is too important to trust just anyone. Contact Catseye today to learn more or to schedule a free inspection to get started.  

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Bane of dogbane, the beautiful and the ugly: Dogbane leaf beetle, Chrysochus auaratus, and dogbane webworm, Saucrobotys futilalis

 

In the meadow, beautiful dogbane leaf beetles can be found dining on leaves of dogbane.

 

In midsummer, meadows abound in wildlife. While visiting a patch of dogbane, I stumbled across two leaf-eaters gobbling leaves of dogbane. One was a real beauty and the other, well, more of a messy beast. The beauty is perhaps the most gorgeous of all insects in the meadow, the dogbane leaf beetle, Chrysochus auratus. The scientific name Chrysochus auratus comes from the Greek and refers to “goldsmith” and “gold.” One look at the fantastic metallic hues of blue, green, gold, and red on the surface of the beetle tells it all. This beetle has no accepted common name, but it is often referred to as the dogbane leaf beetle due to its habit of feeding almost exclusively on plants in the genus Apocynum, herbaceous plants we refer to as dogbane. Dogbane grows along roadsides and trails near the forest edge. It is a perennial with clusters of small white flowers. If you damage a leaf or stem, it oozes a white sticky sap. There in full view, with luck you will find the dogbane leaf beetle. It is a wonder that an insect so conspicuous can survive in a world where birds, toads, and mice dine on insects with gusto.

Ah, but there is a secret to the dogbane beetle. The dogbane plant, like its relative the milkweed we met in a previous episode with its nemesis the milkweed longhorned beetle, is full of highly poisonous compounds known as cardenolides. These compounds are toxic to a variety of animals, including humans. Cardenolides are also known as cardiac glycosides and they can have profound and lethal effects on the heart if ingested. It is likely that these compounds evolved to keep leaf-munching animals from eating dogbane. The clever Chrysochus has the ability to eat the leaves of dogbane unscathed. Instead, it ingests cardiac glycosides, stores them in glands, and then secretes them when threatened by its own predators. It is believed that these toxic compounds confer protection from hungry predators that would otherwise devour Chrysochus. The conspicuous color and tendency for the beetle to feed and rest in full sight of its enemies are probably the beetle’s way of advertising its nasty chemical defense. The biological message is this: “That’s right, I’m bad, don’t even think of eating me.”

When the goop is just too much to handle, a backward stroll helps the dogbane beetle to rid its mouthparts of sticky latex.  

In the ongoing struggle between dogbane and Chrysochus, it looks like the beetle has the upper hand, right? Well, not exactly. Dogbane has yet another trick to foil its herbivores. In addition to nocuous glycosides in their tissues, the sap of dogbane is a sticky, white liquid similar in consistency to latex paint. Insects attempting to eat dogbane soon find their jaws gummed-up with a rapidly hardening gob of goop. The dogbane beetle has a crafty trick to rid itself of this sticky mess. After nibbling for a while, the dogbane beetle does a moon walk while dragging its mouthparts on the leaf to wipe-off the sticky dogbane latex. Once free of the latex, it moves to a new spot to resume its feast.

As they age, dogbane webworms will change color from leaf-blending green to aposematic orange.

In addition to a beautiful beetle, dogbane is attacked by another herbivorous insect which some might consider more on the ugly side. Dogbane webworm is the larval stage of what is known as the panic moth. Young caterpillars of this species are green in color, which help them avoid hungry eyes of predators by blending in with leaves of dogbane. As they grow and their webs enlarge, they assume an orange color with contrasting black spots making them quite conspicuous. In a series of clever studies, Dr. Jacqualine Grant demonstrated that the aposematic orange coloration of dogbane webworms likely served as a warning to predators. Simulated predatory attacks resulted in caterpillars regurgitating gut contents laden with nasty compounds capable of repelling predators. Once again, an herbivorous insect turned the tables on chemically defended dogbane and used dogbane’s noxious chemicals for its own defense.

In addition to beautiful dogbane leaf beetles, patches of dogbane are frequented by tent-making dogbane webworms. As they grow, they become more orange in color to warn predators of their nasty defense, gained from ingesting dogbane’s noxious chemicals. Feeding by these caterpillars puts a beatdown on dogbane plants.

Now is a great time to explore the meadow to enjoy these marvelous beetles and creepy caterpillars and witness the ‘tit for tat’ relationship they have with their chemically defended host.

Acknowledgements

Information for this week’s episode came from “The Love of Insects” by Thomas Eisner, “Deactivation of plant defense: correspondence between insect behavior and secretory canal architecture” by Dave Doussard and Bob Denno, and “Ontogenetic colour change and the evolution of aposematism: a case study in panic moth caterpillars” by Jacqualine B. Grant. We thank Deak and Sheri for sharing their dogbane patch and Master Naturalist students at Nature Forward that provided the inspiration for this episode.

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Are Termites Attracted to Light? Unveiling the Truth  

Before you can understand termite behaviors related to light, it may help to gain a basic understanding of light attraction in pests, in general. Scientists have long wondered why light attracts so many types of insects, particularly artificial light at night.  

To gain a better understanding of the phenomenon, researchers at the Imperial College London used infrared cameras and motion-capture technology to study moths, dragonflies, and six other insects, such as honeybees and fruit flies. Using the data they captured, they found that insects don’t fly directly toward the light. Instead, they circle the light and try to position themselves with their backs to it. This allows them to maintain their flight patterns in relation to the horizon. 

So, how does the phenomenon of light attraction in pests relate to termite behavior? Let’s explore whether termites are attracted to light and look at other termite facts you should know to help keep your property safe from these destructive pests.  

Introduction to Termite Behavior 

Termites are relentless in their quest for food. These tiny pests, which cause an average of $5 billion in damage every year, chew their way through wood virtually around the clock. Most termites are blind and rely on a mixture of scents, pheromones, and vibration to communicate, mark food trails, and recognize their nest mates. 

They are social insects that raise their families in colonies that contain kings, queens, workers, and other caste members. During their alate stage, termites can fly. They have two sets of wings and are often called “swarmers.” During this part of their lives, they are more visible to humans because they fly in the open as they search for their mates and start new colonies. 

Common Misconceptions About Termites 

Contrary to what some people may think, not all termites are the same. More than 2,000 termite species exist worldwide, many with differing characteristics and behaviors. In this region, the most common species is the subterranean termite, which prefers to remain close to or below ground level. These termites create “mud tubes” to travel from their nests to their food source without ever having to directly contact the light.  

Swarming “alates” (flying termites) cluster around a windowsill

Myth vs. Fact 

Now that you understand a bit more about termite behaviors, in general, let’s take a closer look at whether these pests are indeed attracted to light. In truth, the role light plays in termites’ lives is a bit of a gray area, as some common misconceptions prove.  

Let’s explore three of the top misconceptions to uncover the actual facts about termites related to their behavior surrounding light exposure.  

1. Sunlight Kills Termites 

This is mostly true because subterranean termites, which are the most common throughout this region, can be killed by sunlight. Essentially, non-winged termites dry out and die upon exposure to a combination of extreme heat and dry conditions. Sunlight and ultraviolet light can kill termites within minutes of exposure because it quickly evaporates the moisture they need to survive.  

However, winged termites use the light to their advantage. They not only survive in the light, but actually thrive as they use light to find their mates and start their own colonies. 

Research also shows that three species of termites (Reticulitermes tibialis Banks, R. flavipes, and R. virginicus) experience autophototoxicity after UV exposure. These termites contain an alkaloid that makes them very sensitive to the effects of light exposure. 

2. All Termites Avoid Light 

Winged termites, often referred to as swarming termites or “swarmers,” have eyes, and they use the light to help them find their mates. As a result, if you have an infestation, you might find discarded wings near windows or see these pests near porch lights and other light sources. In some areas, when there’s a colony of termites nearby, swarms of termites head out in search of mates and new homes. Because they often use light to guide them, keeping outdoor lights off during these times can help prevent them from choosing your property.  

3. Termites Need Light to Mate 

Is light necessary for termites to mate? It turns out, the answer is probably they do not. In 2022, Nobuaki Mizumoto of Auburn University and Thomas Bourguignon of the Okinawa Institute of Science and Technology conducted a joint study. Intended to assess the role of light in termite mating patterns, the duo’s research revealed that it doesn’t completely disrupt mating patterns.  

Based on experiments performed in both total darkness and with light, the termites were more active in the light but still able to locate their mate in the dark. In the end, the results suggest that light can affect termites’ movement patterns but not their ability to mate. Another study, published in 2021, suggests that termites use vibration patterns to communicate and possibly aid reproduction by helping them find their mates.  

Using Light to Manage Termite Populations 

Using light to eliminate termites sounds promising, but it isn’t very practical. Termites typically move quickly to escape light sources, making it challenging to really use light to your advantage for elimination. However, the way you use light around your property can make a difference in the odds that you attract swarming termites as they mate. 

Practical Tips for Termite Prevention and Control 

One of the best ways to prevent termites in and around your property is to create a home that is unattractive to them. Although research into their photosensitivity is relatively low, most termites clearly avoid light. Swarmers, on the other hand, are drawn to the light, and if they deem your home worthy of starting their colony — look out. You could end up with substantial damage before you know it.  

Environmental Modifications 

You can make some relatively simple changes to help protect your home. For example, you might use a lighting design that minimizes the use of outdoor lights. For instance, install sensor-activated lights that go on when they detect activity and automatically shut off after a set period. You might also add lights to recessed areas, away from doors and windows to avoid attracting alates or making it easy for them to enter your home. 

Monitoring and Early Detection 

Routine inspections can make a tremendous difference in the fight against termites. Consider inspecting your home monthly to look for signs of termites, which include the following:  

  • Mud tunnels near foundations 
  • Small holes in wood with sawdust-like material below it 
  • A bubbled look to wood surfaces 
  • Signs of swarming insects, such as live insects or discarded wings on windowsills and door frames 

When to Call a Professional 

At the first sign of termite activity, call a professional. Termites can be active for a long time before ever providing any indication that they are present. They thrive in moist, warm areas and wreak havoc on structures of all types. Worst of all, termite damage is rarely covered by homeowners’ insurance policies, leaving you with a potentially big repair bill.  

The good news is that partnering with a professional can help prevent termites and minimize the potential damage to your home. Catseye Pest Control has helped homeowners and businesses throughout Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island, and New Hampshire prevent and eliminate termite infestations since 1987. Our highly trained and licensed technicians are standing by to help.  

Contact Catseye Pest Control today for a free inspection or to get started immediately.  

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Chafer madness: Oriental beetle, Anomala orientalis, and Asiatic garden beetle, Maladera castanea

 

Chafers such as exotic invasive Asian garden beetles (top) and Oriental beetles (bottom) can mean big trouble for your ornamental plants.

 

Three weeks ago, we visited fireflies that are enjoying a spectacular year here in the DMV and in other states in our region. One reason for this renaissance may be due to the benign winter and mild moist spring that may have boosted survival and development of soil-dwelling larval fireflies. Ah, but it appears that in addition to beneficial fireflies, there are other denizens of the soil which also enjoyed conditions favorable for their survival: plant-eating scarab beetles known as chafers.   

Despoiling petals of my coneflowers is just another meal for the Oriental beetle.

Each year, I strive to raise a crop of interesting sunflowers to attract pollinators and birds to photograph and enjoy. However, over the past few weeks, leaves of my sunflowers disappeared in bits and pieces down the gullets of small scarab beetles known as Oriental beetles and Asiatic garden beetles. We met other members of this destructive branch of the scarab clan in previous episodes on Japanese beetles and green June beetles. Oriental beetles are yet another exotic invasive pest introduced to the US sometime before 1920. Originally detected in Connecticut, Oriental beetle now ranges from Maine to the Carolinas and west to the Heartlands. Like Oriental beetles, Asiatic garden beetles are invaders from Asia first detected on the east coast in New Jersey. Their discovery in the Garden State in 1921 followed the earlier discovery of Japanese beetles in 1916. Asiatic garden beetles now range from Canada to Florida and west to the Mississippi. As adults, these scalawags are known to eat more than 100 species of ornamental plants, but they can also be important pests of vegetables, including corn.

The misery these beetles levy on our ornamental plants comes as they munch leaves and flowers of our trees and shrubs. Over the past week or so, great chunks of leaves and flowers vanished seemingly overnight from my sunflowers and butterfly bushes. Repetitive and thorough daytime plant inspections failed to reveal the perpetrators of this assault. However, a midnight’s visit to my butterfly bush revealed hordes of Asiatic garden beetles and Oriental beetles busily stripping away the foliage. Grubs of these little rascals, commonly known as white grubs, have been rooting about in my flower beds and lawn since their mothers deposited eggs in the soil early last summer. During the past year, conditions for survival of white grubs were spectacular. This heralded the possibility that the scarab clan would likely be problematic this year and unfortunately for our plants, the prediction seems to be coming true. By munching roots of grasses, annual, and perennial plants, white grubs can be important pests. Oriental beetle grub counts can approach as many as 60 per square foot of turf in heavy infestations. Here in Maryland by late spring larvae of chafers have completed development, pupated, and adults make their grand appearance in the first half of June. They will be present for the majority of the summer, devouring leaves and punishing blossoms in my landscape beds.

Leaves of my sunflowers have been disappearing over the past few weeks. Daytime inspections revealed nothing but a nocturnal recon nailed the perps, Oriental beetles like the patterned one on the left and brown Asiatic garden beetles like the one on the right. Watch as an Asiatic garden beetle devours a sunflower leaf. The handiwork of these rascals leaves me wondering if my poor sunflowers will bloom at all.

Managing Oriental beetles and other scarabs usually focuses on destruction of grubs in the turf and several products are available. One group of insecticides widely used for controlling white grubs including Japanese beetles and Oriental beetles are the neonicotinoids. These compounds have received much recent attention due to their impacts on pollinators, particularly bees. A fascinating study by Dan Potter and his colleagues at the University of Kentucky revealed that turf treated with the neonicotinoid insecticide clothianidin was not the best place for bumble bees to forage. White clover in plots treated with clothianidin expressed the insecticide in their blossoms, which in turn intoxicated the bees. However, once the clover blossoms had been removed by mowing, the exposure to bees was mitigated. A second white grub-killing insecticide evaluated in the study, chlorantraniliprole, presented no detectable adverse effect for the bumble bees.

Like other species of white grubs, Oriental beetle larvae consume the nutritious roots of plants.

In addition to synthetic insecticides, many folks recommend the use of nematodes to control white grubs in turf. Nematodes enter the grub and release a lethal bacterium. There are many different species and strains of nematodes. Dave Shetlar of the Ohio State University suggests that products containing strains of Steinernema carpocapsae are a bit less effective against beetle grubs than species in the clan named Heterorhabditis. You must wait until late July or August when grubs are in the soil, if you go the nematode route. Several species of parasitic wasps attack white grubs with paralyzing stings and deposit their eggs on the grub. Upon hatching, these parasitic wasp larvae consume their hapless victim. Flowering plants such as goldenrods and bee-balms are magnets for adult wasps, which require nectar and pollen sources. I always have these in my flower beds to attract these highly beneficial wasps, part of Mother Nature’s hit squad that help mitigate pests like white grubs. For me, plucking the beetles from the plants and either crushing their small bodies or giving them a swim in a cup of soapy water provides some retribution for their miscreant behaviors. There may be some good news on the horizon regarding these noisome grubs. Droughty conditions in June and July when female beetles deposit eggs in the soil generally disfavor survival of eggs and young larvae. While summer droughts may not benefit lawns and ornamental plants, they are a pariah to pesky chafers. 

One more thing about Asiatic garden beetle. They are notorious for being attracted to light. I don’t know about you, but part of my regular nighttime routine involves reading a good book at bedtime. During the past few weeks, these moments of mindfulness have been interrupted by a steady pelting of rather large scarab beetles attracted to the light from my bedroom window. So, if you hear something go bump in the night at your bedroom window and if your sunflower’s leaves are disappearing mysteriously, grab a flashlight and have a look for these midnight marauders.

Acknowledgements

Excellent references such as “Assessing Insecticide Hazard to Bumble Bees Foraging on Flowering Weeds in Treated Lawns” by Jonathan L. Larson, Carl T. Redmond, and Daniel A. Potter, “Destructive Turfgrass Insects” by Daniel Potter, and the publication found at the following link were used in preparing this episode:  https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0066375

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Effective Removal Strategies to Banish Odorous House Ants 

Ants are among the most common household pests in New England, but not all ants are the same. Like their name implies, odorous house ants aren’t just a nuisance — they literally stink.  

Let’s explore what makes these insects a unique problem, including the danger they pose, their common behaviors, and how to get rid of odorous ants for good.  

What Are Odorous House Ants? 

Although they are often mistaken for pavement ants, odorous house ants are smaller, usually growing from 1/16 to 1/8 inch in size. Their bodies are uniform in color, typically in shades of brown or black. They have an uneven thorax and antenna with 12 segments.  

Perhaps their most notable identifier is the source of their name. If you crush them or they feel threatened, these ants emit a scent that is similar to rotten coconuts. However, that’s not the worst part about having an infestation of these ants.  

Why They Are a Problem 

Odorous house ants are small but can pose a big problem. Beyond their funky smell, these pests can also contaminate food in your pantry, silverware in drawers, and dishes on your counter. Additionally, this ant species is known for building large, extensive colonies, which makes them challenging to eliminate on your own.  

Common Behaviors and Habitats of Odorous House Ants 

Odorous ants are drawn to sweet, greasy foods. Outdoors, they are attracted to plant nectar and “honeydew,” or the excrement from aphids. Indoors, they are likely to be found closer to food sources. Understanding the habits and habitats of these common household pests can help you prevent and control them more successfully.   

Three small black ants crawl on a metallic surface

Typical Habitats 

Odorous ants love nesting in warm, moist areas. You can often find them indoors in areas near leaky pipes, faucets, heaters, and damp wood. What draws them inside is the allure of food, including sweets and meats. Outdoors, they feed on insects and other materials and can be found in mulched landscaping beds, under wood piles, and beneath piles of clutter. They are known for building vast networks of interconnected nests.  

Foraging Patterns 

These ants are renowned for establishing trails to follow when foraging and sticking to them. Outside, they often stick to the edges of window and door frames, siding, and decking. Indoors, active workers quickly march in single file in kitchens and pantries.  

Nesting Behavior 

Odorous ants usually build large colonies, often with multiple queens and thousands of workers. They may build their nests near sources of moisture, voids, and termite-damaged wood, often coming indoors during warmer months, the fall, and rainy seasons. 

DIY Solutions for Controlling Odorous House Ants 

Getting rid of odorous ants on your own can be challenging, particularly given these pests’ inclination for building large nests. However, several DIY solutions may be worth a try.  

Identifying Entry Points 

Because of their small size, these tiny pests can slip in through miniscule openings. By tracking their movements and watching them travel along their established trails, you may be able to identify the areas where they enter the building. If so, you should be able to track their activity to find where these tiny black ants are getting in your house. By sealing up entry points and eliminating outdoor nests, you can effectively regain control of your home and property.  

Using Natural Repellents 

Although DIY remedies are rarely completely effective, when used in combination with identifying how and where these ants are entering, they can be helpful. Eliminate ants’ pheromone trails with a mixture of equal parts water and white vinegar or try other natural repellents, such as: 

  • Water, tea tree oil, and a few drops of dish soap  
  • Chalk to disrupt odorous ants’ scent trails 
  • Cinnamon or cinnamon oil and water in areas ants frequent 

Creating Homemade Ant Baits 

Although you might be tempted to buy baits that are designed for sugar-loving ants, you can also try making your own. A few examples include: 

  • A mix of equal parts baking soda and powdered sugar sprinkled on windowsills, kitchen counters, and flooring 
  • Borax mixed with syrup or jelly and placed in high-traffic areas 
  • A mix of corn syrup and borax on wax paper 
  • Neem oil and cayenne pepper 

Keeping a Clean Home 

Sanitation can help prevent many pests, including odorous ants. For example, eliminate clutter and trim all vegetation far enough away from the exterior of the building to eliminate ants’ easy access to your home. Inside, regularly vacuum and mop floors, wipe down kitchen counters, wash dishes, and keep all foods stored in airtight containers. 

Preventing Future Infestations 

When it comes to odorous ants — and most other pests, for that matter — prevention is the best line of defense. Check out the following tips to help minimize your risk of future invasions from these smelly nuisances. 

Sealing Entry Points 

Odorous ants are tiny. Sealing gaps, cracks, and crevices in your foundation, around utility lines and pipes, and other openings can keep them outside.  

Reducing Food Sources 

Regularly cleaning your home and maintaining a tidy yard can eliminate the sweet, starchy, and greasy food these pests crave. This will keep them moving in search of a food source, which they will be forced to find elsewhere.  

Regular Inspections 

The sooner you recognize the problem, the better you will be equipped to prevent it from becoming widespread. These ants are known for building large, widespread colonies that can be very challenging to eliminate. 

Professional Solutions for Controlling Odorous House Ants 

Like cockroaches and rodents, these pests often crawl across undesirable surfaces, like dumpsters and sewers. When they enter your home, they could be tracking all kinds of pathogens along with them. Professionals can get to the root of the problem for complete elimination. While it can be difficult to eradicate an entire colony on your own, professionals have the education and equipment necessary for the job.  

Contact Catseye Pest Control  

Don’t wait until an ant infestation grows larger. Lean on the professional expertise of Catseye’s highly trained technicians. We can properly identify the ants and how they are getting inside and create a customized treatment plan to ensure successful, lasting control.  

Schedule a free inspection today to get started. 

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Always a surprise: European earwig, Forficula auricularia

 

The earwig, my dear, is nothing to fear. Despite what you heard; it won’t climb in your ear. Those pinchers you see at the end of its tail are for picking up groceries, garbage, and mail. From “26 Things that Bug Me” by M.J. Raupp

 

Earwigs almost always surprise me. Whether it’s when I inspect my flowers at night, look behind a tree face on my American elm, or open a hatch on my kayak, there they are, a kind of creepy scrum of wiggly, pincher-tailed insects. Earwigs belong to an order of insects called Dermaptera, derived from the Greek meaning “skin wing”. This derivation refers to the hind wings of the earwig that are not often seen, as they are folded beneath and hidden by the forewings. The common name of earwig is thought to refer to the shape of the hindwing which, when unfolded, resembles a human ear, according to Wikipedia.  An old urban legend has it that earwigs crawl into human ears to lay eggs. While this legend has been largely debunked, there are actually two documented accounts of earwigs entering people’s ears, much to the consternation of the human and presumably the earwig.

Clusters of earwigs are often found on flowers or foliage where they munch blossoms and leaves.

During a recent question and answer interlude following a presentation, one clever listener wanted to know a bit more about earwigs and what roles they played. Well, I can’t speak about all earwigs, but with our common non-native earwig, Forficula auricularia, I do have some relevant experience. Several years ago, I had a wonderful bed full of marigolds with glorious blossoms. Little by little I noticed ever increasing levels of defoliation on the leaves of many plants. I carefully inspected the plants each day to see who the culprit might be. This mysterious mandibulate leaf-muncher remained a mystery until one midnight I crept out to the garden and discovered legions of European earwigs feasting on my marigolds. Undoubtedly, earwigs are herbivores. Several years later while studying misery levied on azaleas by azalea lace bug, one of my students discovered European earwigs snacking on azalea lace bug nymphs. So, clearly European earwigs are omnivores leading a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde existence as beneficial predators of plant pests and pests in their own right when they eat our ornamental plants and vegetables. These strange insects do have some admirable traits shared even with ourselves. Mother earwigs tend their eggs in an egg nest, cleaning them and moving them about to keep them free of pathogens and in proper ranges of temperature and humidity. Following egg hatch, nymphs are guarded and fed by their mother. 

Earwigs almost always surprise me. Whether it’s a nighttime raid on my flowers, when I peek behind a tree face on my American elm, or when I open a hatch on my kayak, there they are, a kind of creepy scrum of wiggly, pincher-tailed insects.

As alluded to above, earwigs are most active at night and seek dark moist places to hide during daylight hours. Perhaps their most notable and unique attributes are the intimidating pinchers, aka cerci, found at the tips of the earwig’s abdomen. These formidable appendages are used in defense, mating, and prey capture. However, pinches delivered by the cerci tend to be more surprising than painful. In addition to scary pinchers, abdominal glands produce irritating benzoquinones that can be sprayed on attackers while held fast by its pinchers. So, hail the earwig for their beneficial activities as predators, but reserve a modicum of blame for their sneaky nocturnal attacks on plants.

Acknowledgements

Bug of the Week thanks an avid listener to a presentation on climate change who inquired about earwigs and provided the inspiration for this episode. The short communication “Earwig in the ear” by J. R. Fisher, the fact-filled Featured Creature bulletin “Common name: European earwig scientific name: Forficula auricularia Linnaeus (Insecta: Dermaptera: Forficulidae)” by John Capinera, and the wonderful “Secret weapons” by Thomas Eisner, Maria Eisner, and Melody Siegler were used as references for this episode.

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